Camera Scanning your Negatives

An illustrated guide.

This is how I use camera scanning to convert negatives into color corrected images.

First use a camera to digitize the negative

Using a Canon 60D + 60mm macro lens + Photosolve Extend-a-Slide to 'camera scan' negatives.

Then we need to convert and color correct the negative

Why so many?

I document several techniques that you can use to convert negatives that you have camera scanned. They don't work equally well on all negatives. If you are having problems getting good color with one technique, then try one of the other techniques.

Even though I don't list the ColorPerfect plugin first, you might want give that a try first. If you get acceptable color with ColorPerfect and are willing to pay for the license, then it is easier to use then the other techniques. (But I usually use one of the other techniques, even though they take a bit longer than ColorPerfect. Because I can usually get better color.)

Converting: method 1. dcraw and Photoshop

Use dcraw to make a linear TIFF and use PhotoShop to convert it.

Converting: method 2. Using Canon DPP and Photoshop

Converting the RAW file with Canon DPP Convert the RAW file into 16 bit linear TIFF file using Canon DPP.

Converting the linear TIFF file with Adobe Photoshop Convert the 16 bit linear TIFF file into the final color corrected image.

Actual Canon 60D Raw file of the camera scanned negative so you can practice on it. About 33 megs.

Converting: method 3. Using Adobe ACR and Photoshop

Step-by-step instructions on using Adobe ACR and Photoshop to convert a negative.

Actual Canon 60D Raw file of the camera scanned negative so you can practice on it. About 33 megs.

Converting: method 5. Use the ColorPerfect Photoshop plugin

The ColorPerfect Photoshop plugin.

Converting: method 6. Using Adobe ACR, Photoshop, and Kodak Digital ROC

Quick docs on using Kodak Digital ROC with Adobe ACR and Photoshop to convert negatives.

Two Scarecrows (an excercise)

No step-by-step instructions, but I used roughly the same procedure as above. About the only difference is I needed to twist the curves slightly in the final Curves step so that the converted negative image better matched the image taken directly with an EOS-M.

RAW file of Fuji 200 negative
RAW file of Fuji 200 negative

White balanced linear TIFF saved from DPP
White balanced linear TIFF saved from DPP

Converted Fuji 200 image
Converted Fuji 200 image

Same scene taken on an EOS-M Mirrorless camera
Same scene taken on an EOS-M Mirrorless camera

Actual Canon 60D Raw file of the camera scanned negative so you can practice on it. About 38 megs.

Comparison of different methods of scanning

Comparison of different methods of scanning

Questions? Write to camerascanning@frogymandias.org

Home